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Jim & Cary Yanny’s Guide to Diving in the Maldives: Part 4

Jim and Cary Yanny

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Part 4: Vilamendhoo Resort 

Jim and Cary report on their trip to visit various resorts and liveaboards in the Maldives. In Part 4, they visit Vilamendhoo Resort… Last island stop for Jim and Cary. But hang on, there are the liveaboards to come!

Our last island stop before boarding our liveaboard for the second week of our Maldives adventure was at Vilamendhoo Resort where we spent two short-but-sweet nights. Vilamendhoo Island is in South Ari Atoll, near to LUX, so we transferred there by a short speedboat ride. However, please note that usually you would transfer by seaplane directly from Male Airport, which takes 25 minutes. Even though it rained for much of our stay, (so photos were a little depleted), this inclement weather did not dampen our enjoyment.

Within the Maldives context of upscale island resorts, I’d honestly say that Vilamendhoo was the most down-to-earth property we visited. Just to be clear, though, this is not a negative. After all, we’re divers and therefore we quite like things being ‘au naturel’. The moment you arrive at Vilamendhoo it’s evident that this place is relaxed and laid-back; never a bad thing on a holiday!

That said, Vilamendhoo IS an upscale Maldivian resort, offering all the creature comforts that by now we were getting dangerously accustomed to, white-sand beach, excellent spa, over-the-water villas, eat-all-you-want buffet spread, bars serving sun-downers, a la carte restaurant, yep, all boxes checked, so we must be at another great Maldivian resort.

Vilamendhoo represents excellent value for money, within the Maldivian context, of course, as it offers ‘Garden Rooms’ (no sea view). We think these are perfectly adequate for divers, given that you’re away from your room diving for most of the day.

Their Garden Rooms are probably not as suitable for honeymooners, but don’t worry they’ve got that covered too. We know because we were accommodated in a ‘Jacuzzi Water Villa’ (adults only i.e. 18+). And, yep, we did feel a little naughty being there, given that we haven’t just tied the knot but not enough to make us request a room-change, of course. So bear with me one more time as I do my best to make you envious in describing our not-so-modest room. This shouldn’t be too difficult. Here goes: over the water (as implied by the name), sunbathing terrace with steps down to the sea, Jacuzzi for two ‘under the stars’, large double bed, Jacuzzi, mini-bar, rainfall shower, Jacuzzi, satellite TV. OK, ok I’ll stop now! (But did I mention the Jacuzzi for two?)

Being divers, the coolest part of our Vilamendhoo experience was walking up the wooden pathway from the stunning beach to our villa (past the spa), as each time we did we could witness a fabulous sight; a group of about eight beautiful, tiny baby black-tip reef sharks, each no more than a foot long, swimming amongst two shoals of thousands of silver-sides. As the sharks swan through the shoals, they in turn would gently part in that same wonderful, ghost-like way they do at a reef whenever a fish passes through. It was so captivating to see and a real highlight of this trip; pure unspoilt nature and all going on just a metre from our beach! If anyone ever needed a reminder of what a fantastic but vulnerable creature a sharks is, and therefore in need of our protection, this was it. We thought being able to watch them here, without having to dive, was also a very cool education for any non-divers staying at the resort.

See how sharks can bring me to distraction? OK, back to my report on Vilamendhoo Island Resort…but those sharks were at Vilamendhoo, so that’s a cool reason to go there, right?*
*Some small print: Warning! Sharks move. They are therefore not guaranteed to be there, exactly where we left them, when you go to Vilamendhoo. (Hopefully you knew that already.)

So far I’ve described the Jacuzzi Water Villas (did I mention the Jacuzzi?) and the Garden Rooms. Dotted along the beach there’s also the Jacuzzi Beach Villas (I’m not saying a word) and their final room category is the Beach Villa. One nice aspect is that this beach has a lot of trees providing shade and these trees are also home to tons of fruit bats, which in the Maldives bizarrely fly around during daylight hours and so are easily spotted, just another very cool feature of the place for nature-lovers.

Apart from the two main buffet restaurants (eat-all-you-want), Vilamendhoo also has an ‘Asian Wok’ a la carte over-the-water restaurant, the Hot Rock Restaurant on the Sunset Bar beach featuring seafood, steak or chicken cooked at your table on ‘hot rocks’, for adults only and three other ‘optional’ á la carte choices: a snack menu at the bars and pools; room service and a selection of special dinners served on the beach. There are also four bars.

Let’s talk diving! We dived with the resident operator, Euro Divers. Our first was a check dive with friendly French dive-guide Kevin on the House Reef. To be completely honest, this reef was just OK, not mind-blowing, perfectly suited for your check-dive on your arrival day or an afternoon’s potter. One nice idea is that you can do a ‘one way’ dive, i.e. not have to double back to your entry point, as they have six different entry/exit points, each clearly marked out underwater with ropes that indicate where the cut in the reef is for a safe egress. So we did exactly that and at the end of our dive just walked out of the sea, puffing chests out as we passed fascinated snorkellers and deposited our cylinders at a conveniently positioned bench on the beach to be collected by the dive centre’s staff. House Reefs are meant to be convenient and this one was super-convenient, so Euro Divers get a bonus point from us for this simple but effective service.

The next day we joined another friendly (Swiss) guide, Leila, on a dive Dhoni for the two-tank morning trip. As mentioned earlier, the weather was a bit rainy/windy/wavy (November is the change of monsoon in the Maldives, hence the weather can be a bit of a mix of sun, wind and rain), so Leila was obliged to change her dive plan. We’re always happy to see that a guide is flexible and able to adapt the plan to the conditions on the day; it shows common sense, experience and a consideration for the guest divers.

I mention this change because it meant that we did not dive our originally planned site, Vilamendhoo Thila. Why is this important? Well, because we came back and dived Vilamendhoo Thila the following week on our liveaboard. The dives we did whilst staying at Vilamendhoo were good BUT the dive we did at Vilamendhoo Thila from the liveaboard was arguably one of the best dives we did all week. It was absolutely glorious folks – so rich with reef life and coral, schooling fish (blue line snapper, red tooth trigger fish etc.), sharks and just loads and loads of batfish parked in our bubbles, a simply magical dive. This dive site is literally just out from Vilamendhoo Island, around 200 metres from the over-the-water restaurant. Until we dived it, I had left Vilamendhoo with the impression that one would stay there mainly for one thing – that it offers the chance to see whale sharks all year-round. Now, that’s a pretty good reason in itself! However, once I dived Vilamendhoo Thila I got the full picture of precisely what diving this resort has on its doorstep. Sincerely, if I just dived Vilamendhoo Thila every day for a whole week and never saw a whale shark, I’d still be pretty happy. So there you go, all the reasons you need to stay at Vilamendhoo Island Resort.

I hope you’re enjoying reading these reports as much as I am writing them. My next report will be my last about the Maldives, which will be all about our one-week safari on-board Emperor Voyager.

Jim and Cary own and run UK-based tour operator Diverse Travel. To find out more about the Maldivian itineraries that Diverse Travel offer, visit www.diversetravel.co.uk/maldives.

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Back with a bang!! (Part 2 of 2)

Sean Chinn

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Sean Chinn reports from The Maldives…

Hopefully you have read part 1 of my “Back with a bang” blog series – reading about how epic day 1 of diving back in the Maldives with The Scuba Place onboard Sachika really was. If you haven’t then check it out HERE. You may now be thinking how can the rest of the week compete with that kind of adrenalin-fuelled awesomeness of day 1. Thankfully for me and the rest of the group the week continued to deliver some truly memorable moments underwater with amazing marine life interactions. Life onboard the boat also added to what was one of the best dive trips of my life.

Manta ray passes overhead at Camel Rock cleaning station

MANTAstic adventures continued in day 2 as we enjoyed another memorable encounter with one of the oceans most graceful animals. Dive 2 saw us at ‘Camel Rock’ dive site, a stunning cleaning station full of colourful fish waiting for their client to glide in. The current was slight but still required the group to get close to the sand and wait in hope for a manta to turn up. As I waited I noticed a nice space on the sand behind the cleaning station, sheltered from the current it was a more peaceful place to wait and then my movements were rewarded massively. As it happened I moved to the perfect location where the manta would first enter the cleaning station and I screamed with delight to alert the others. 20 minutes were then spent with this beauty as it spent time hovering getting cleaned and then circled the group and back in to the station numerous times. One of the best feelings is when a manta hovers directly above you allowing a special connection between species.

The next couple of dives allowed me to shoot some macro for the first time in two years. I was a little rusty and unlike parts of South East Asia, The Maldives is not full of unique macro subjects. However, there’s still plenty to get the practice in and enjoy looking deep into the reefs. A leaf scorpion fish was the highlight of the macro subjects, although a sneaky black cheek moray eel that was initially hiding came out and gave me a little nip as I hovered taking photos of the leaf scorpion fish. Luckily it only gives a graze but I think it was time to move along and look elsewhere.

Leaf scorpionfish taken at Kuda Rah Thila dive site

After a couple of macro adventures it was now time to go BIG and it doesn’t get much bigger than the biggest fish in the ocean. We were off to find whale sharks and it wasn’t long before we were on what felt like a navy mission snorkel. All lined up on the edge of the Dhoni ready to “Dive, Dive, Dive.” I was a little nervous plummeting into the water with all my camera gear in hand but that was alleviated once I saw the whale shark coming as the mayhem began. A free-for-all of snorkelers competing for the whale sharks attention. After three visits to the Maldives it was my first time seeing one here, albeit in crazy circumstances to start with. It was slightly humorous seeing flailing arms and legs swinging wildly trying to keep up with this beautiful beast gently swimming along. Thankfully everyone respected the distance and the whale shark didn’t seem too bothered by all the attention and stayed around as we got back on the boat to kit up and dive.

Swimmers try to keep up with a whale shark at Maamigili Beru dive site

The dive itself was incredible. We dropped in front of the whale shark and watched it pass and swim off into the distance. The reef then delivered some great encounters with a hawksbill turtle in initially. Then some male whitetip reef sharks persistently pursuing a female in their attempt to mate with her. They continued to circle close by and I was really hoping to capture some amazing behaviour but the female wasn’t in the mood this time around and gave them the run around before disappearing.

A sleeping nurse shark and scorpionfish added to the unique life on the dive but it was the safety stop that will stay with me forever. My greatest ever safety stop as I asked dive guide Big Ali to blow bubble rings and pose for a photo he was suddenly photo bombed by a whale shark. Yes! As I looked at the display composing the shot of Ali I couldn’t believe my eyes as a big shadow passed behind him. I screamed in delight (I do this often underwater) as I swam towards Ali to get his attention to the shark before proceeding to take some photos and enjoy what felt like a solitary moment with the shark after the madness at the start of the dive with the first whale shark.

I really could keep delving deep into my explanations of each dive on this trip as they all delivered incredible moments but I should start to condense it a little now before I take too much space. Grey reef sharks would become the stars of the show towards the end of the week as I finally was able to get some nice shots of them after two previous trips not delivering. Better visibility and close passes meant I could really work on my grey reef shark portfolio and was ecstatic with the interactions, especially at one of my favourite dive sites of the trip – ‘Fish Head’. We watched as they patrolled the outer edges of the reef with the occasional burst as they hunted. The mass of fish life including beautiful schooling bannerfish added a splash of colour to the scene for two incredible dives there.

Grey reef shark makes a close pass at Fish Head dive site

We were also super lucky to introduce a new manta ID to The Manta Trust with our visitor at Fesdhoo Lagoon on the night. With the light at the back of the boat attracting the plankton we had to wait until around 10.30pm for its arrival. I was pretty much the last person left waiting at the back of the boat with one guest coming back up from his room to check. As we were speaking I caught a white ghostly figure in the corner of my eye. It was a little deeper than previous years but I knew straight away what it was as I shouted MANTAAAA!! I quickly got my camera and snorkelling gear on and spent the next couple of hours with this new beauty. I called out to get others to let everyone else know it was here and suddenly the whole boat was at the back of the boat or in the water to marvel at the beauty as it barrel rolled at the back of the boat. Fairplay to dive guide Little Ali also, as he offered to take people diving even at 11.30pm. I decided to stay snorkelling but some had fun diving as well.

Every dive was amazing with truly wonderful moments to talk about. Maiya Thila night dive was again incredible. Marbled rays were an ever present on the dive hunting along with whitetip reef sharks, moray eels, giant trevally and octopus. Hawksbill turtle were a hit on a number of dives with not a care in the world as they swam within inches of you and on one occasion one even lay on my leg as I was photographing an octopus. Charismatic and charming they were there to the end and delivered the best moments on the very last dive. Time spent on deserted islands also added to the charm of this trip with a beach BBQ under the stars providing a welcome escape from the boat in paradise. The dancing on the beach almost as good as the final nights party onboard, but the less said about that the better.

A stunning desert island where guests were able to enjoy some free time away from diving

Our parting gift underwater was snorkelling at the famous “Fish Tank” dive site. Unfortunately due to our flight time the next day we were unable to dive but those familiar with the site will know it’s easily accessible by snorkel. With stingrays visiting knee deep water around the tuna factory. It was mayhem!! The current was ripping and suddenly hoards of snorkelers entered the water not familiar with currents. It was a crazy 45 minutes in the water with an array of stingrays and people but it didn’t take away from what a spectacular week we had and I always look at it as an adventure. I’m looking forward to the day I’ll be back onboard Sachika in the Maldives as I’ll be back for sure!!

Dive guide Big Ali with a hawksbill turtle at Kuda Vattaru dive site


Sean’s trip was organised by The Scuba Place. For more information and to book call 020 3515 9955, email reservations@thescubaplace.co.uk or visit www.thescubaplace.co.uk.

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Back with a bang!! (Part 1 of 2)

Sean Chinn

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Sean Chinn reports from The Maldives…

October 22nd of this year saw me return to the Maldives and specifically the Central Atolls itinerary onboard Sachika organised by The Scuba Place. This was my third visit to the Maldives since 2014, with all trips being based on Sachika diving the best of the Central Atolls. As it happens the three times I’ve been have all been in October too, allowing a good comparison of how the diving differs year on year. The trip this year was a postponed group trip from last October due to Covid restrictions. It was also touch and go this year whether it would happen but a late lifting of restrictions meant we could travel to the Maldives again and boy, was I happy this trip went ahead! What a special week of diving in paradise.

The flights ran smoothly but, as expected, getting through immigration at Malé airport was a little longer than usual with all the Covid checks needed before entry. However, it wasn’t anything too stressful and we were soon through and after a couple of hours waiting for the boat to be ready (we arrived early morning) we were soon on Sachika ready to eat, sleep, dive, repeat!!

Reef Manta Rays circle the cleaning station at Lankan Manta Point

Saturday was a day of preparation and relaxation onboard ready for the 6 days of diving we had ahead of us. I was itching to get in the water as it had been a good few months and diving since the pandemic has been very limited for me. I had high hopes for this trip as the last two times had been amazing but I wasn’t quite expecting it to be as good as it was…

It certainly started with a bang, as the first dive of the trip delivered one of the best dives of my life. We stayed close to Malé and dived Lankan Paradise (Manta Point) on the morning of Sunday 24th. Wow, wow, wow!!! Words really can’t describe how good this dive was. I’ve dived the site before but the visibility last time wasn’t great compared to the nice vis we had this time. We saw six devil rays cruising the reef within minutes of dropping in and making our way to the cleaning station before a sight that will live with me forever. Big Ali excitedly pointing towards the cleaning station to reveal at least ten majestic mantas dancing around the cleaning station. The buzz that went through my body was incredible and as we moved slowly towards them a hawksbill turtle gently cruised through the group trying to steal the show.

A diver explores the propeller at Kuda Giri Wreck at around 30-35 metres

The mantas held my attention as our group moved towards the top of the cleaning station area and the next 40 minutes were pure heaven. Mantas were gliding over me one by one and dancing with each other in front of my eyes. A lone anemone with clownfish sat in the middle of the cleaning station as mantas glided over blocking out the light with their huge wingspan. While I was completely engrossed in the action, Big Ali continued to get my attention as two octopus then tried to steal the show crawling through the cleaning station interacting with each other and getting close to us. After a quick time with them, I was soon back to the mantas before I was summoned once again to look at the devil rays that were back and a little closer to us. To see mantas and devil rays close together was incredible as they look so similar but the size difference is incredible.

Maldivian clownfish in anemone home on the reef close to Kuda Giri Wreck

The crazy thing about this dive was that it didn’t end on the cleaning station for my group. As we shallowed up to do our safety stop some of the mantas seemingly followed us and carried on putting on a show. It was incredible as they chased each other spiralling up between us. Showing their ability to come really close but without smacking into us. Such impressive graceful animals, it’s a real pleasure to share the water with them. The only dampener about the whole experience for me personally was the fact I took around 340 photos on the dive and only 40 came out due to an SD card problem where the data didn’t write to the card. Annoying, as I know I was taking some of the best photos I’ve ever taken underwater. A shame, but I will always have the memories of such a wonderful experience and at least some shots to show how magical it was.

A nurse shark swims beneath the light from Alimatha Jetty at the famous night dive site

Soooooo!! That was just the first dive. How can the trip get any better than that? Were we going to be left disappointed from now on? Thankfully the trip continued to be special, with day one also continuing to hit. A fun wreck dive at Kuda Giri Wreck followed by the famous Alimatha Jetty Night Dive. Again, huge numbers of nurse sharks go bump in the night as they don’t mind getting close and even resting on my legs at one point as I was knelt on the sand. A couple of black tip reef sharks provided a different shark view as they passed by, with stingrays and octopus also accompanying the cast of this night time spectacle. The nurse sharks were the stars though and even after the dive they continued to circle the back of Sachika and some of us couldn’t resist getting back in for a snorkel too.

Stayed tuned for part 2 on Monday as there are more amazing encounters and dives to discuss from this epic trip!!

A few of the boat couldn’t resist snorkelling with the nurse sharks that stayed around at the back of Sachika


Sean’s trip was organised by The Scuba Place. For more information and to book call 020 3515 9955, email reservations@thescubaplace.co.uk or visit www.thescubaplace.co.uk.

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